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Archived Renovations / Improvements => Wheels,Tires,Axles,Brakes,Hitch,Jacks => Topic started by: FiremanPete on July 19, 2005, 08:38:49 PM
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Repack your wheel bearings (With photos!)
The majority of the info here is from a posting I put up years ago on the old site…I’ve added some
recent photos of my bearing lube job (my ’78 Ramada) in July 2005. There was a great link on the
new site to some photos of an old Scotty camper getting its bearings repacked, so I decided to snap
some photos during the job….hope it helps.
NOTE: In the original posting, I neglected to advise you to have LOTS of paper towels or rags handy. Put newspaper or cardboard down around your hubs if you’re doing this in your garage…I made a greasy mess of my floor….also, tapping out the rear bearings will tap lots of rust and dirt out….have a shop vac ready to avoid a mess.
SECOND NOTE: My wife asks all of you out there not to wear white or off-white shorts or shirts when re-packing wheel bearings. I’ll never learn!
Here’s the updated posting:
For all of you with old Apache's...(basically all of you at this site), wanted to say how important repacking wheel bearings is. My '74 was purchased from a friend, who admitted to me he had never repacked the bearings since original purchase. I had my neighbor (part time "grease monkey") show me how to repack them. If anyone is interested, it's probably the most important part of trailering your camper anywhere. We found the old grease dried up and the bearings had begun to wear. To repack them:
Some folks like to do both wheels at the same time…if that’s the case, get some jack stands…you should use jack stands if you have them, anyway.
I prefer the “wheel at a time†method. I simply crank the trailer tongue down low, drop one rear corner stabilizer to the garage floor, then place a car/floor jack under the frame rail on the side you wish to work on. Loosen the lug nuts on the tire before you lift it off the ground….remember, on many models, the driver side lug nuts will be opposite from the passenger side….mine are marked with an “L†and they are reverse thread…they need to be turned clockwise to loosen!
Now you’re ready to lift the frame rail. When the tire just gets off the ground, use the tongue jack to crank up the front a bit more, and your tire will be well positioned off the ground, allowing the axle to drop freely.
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings1.JPG)
Use a hammer and screwdriver to loosen the cap from the center of the wheel. I tap a flat blade screwdriver into the edge between the hub and the dust cap, then turn it sideways a bit to pry it off a little at a time, moving around the cap. See photo for area to begin prying the cap off…
NOTE: This photo is not of an Apache hub, so your hub will look different...will probably have holes where there studs are...but the dust cap is basically the same....
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/Slide1.JPG)
Make sure the inside of the cap is clean and put it aside. You will see a large nut beneath the cap, with a cotter pin through it. Bend the end of the cotter pin straight and push it out (or pull out with pliers) the other end to remove it. See the photo for cotter pin just behind the end of the spindle.
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings2.JPG)
and here the cotter pin has been bent straight for removal:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings3.JPG)
Clean it and put it aside. The nut should only be hand tight, so you should be able to remove it without tools. Once the nut is removed, you will be able to remove washer, outer bearings, and wheel hub.
Photo shows retaining nut removed and bearings (behind the washer) still on spindle inside hub:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings4.JPG)
There are outside bearings and inside bearings... The outer bearings(the ones you can see) are behind the washer that you can see. They can be removed at this point by simply edging them out with a screwdriver. Pop out the bearings, wipe all dirty grease from them, and place them in a safe spot (I like to put them and the cotter pin right into the dust cap I removed first.) Once the bearings are out, pull the hub off and wipe clean the area you just removed the outer bearings from.
Now place two wood blocks (I use 4x4’s) on the floor a few inches apart. See photo:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings5.JPG)
Place the hub on them so that you can tap out the inner (rear) bearings and seal. I use a socket extension bar since it’s fairly blunt and won’t damage the bearings or seals. You just need to catch the edge of the bearing and tap around to pop it free….it may take a good whack, so don’t use a screwdriver…it may gouge the bearings. Once the bearings and seal pop out, wipe them clean and inspect for damage. Here’s a photo of the inner (rear) bearings and seal after removal and wiping:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings6.JPG)
Now turn the hub over and wipe clean the rear side of the hub opening (where the rear bearings and seal were just removed from) Lubricate the entire inside area from the rear and front with a good coating of bearing grease. It’s also a good time to wipe the inside of the drum (see photo) and scrape out any buildup at the back edge of the drum…mine had accumulated rust/dirt/grease.
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings7.JPG)
Now is a good time to inspect the spindle of the axle. I use a compressor to blow any material out of the wheel hub and wipe off the spindle. I sand any rust on the back side so there’s less chance of friction between the front and rear of hub after re-assembly. If you use electric brakes, now’s the time to check the condition of the brake shoes…(See brake assembly in photo)….Now lubricate the spindle that the wheel hub and bearings will slide back onto.
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings8.JPG)
Now it’s time to clean the bearings and seals. Place them into a coffee can with some parts cleaner…many use gasoline, but use EXTREME caution if you choose to do this….after a few minutes of soaking, use a small brush (old toothbrushes work great) to work the dirty grease out of the bearings and seals. I then use an air compressor to blow the residual cleaner and grease out of the bearings.
To repack the bearings, just put a big blob of wheel bearing grease (from auto parts or hardware store) into the palm of your hand, and "shave" the grease from your hand with the bearing, working the grease into the gap between the bearing housing and the bearings themselves. (It's very self-evident when you look at it.) The old dirty grease will push out the top. You may have to use a good amount….you’ll know when the bearings are full of grease. Here’s a photo off the web of the “shaving†process to fill up the bearings with grease (I couldn’t take a photo for obvious reasons!)
(http://homepages.wmich.edu/~kroes/scottys/resources/img/bearings-grease.jpg)
Now it’s time to replace the inner (rear) bearings. You’ll tap the seal back on after placing the bearings back inside the hub. Not to worry…if the seal won’t go back on, you can always replace it at most automotive parts stores…just bring in the old one to match up. Here’s a photo (not mine) of the rear (inner) bearings in and the seal being tapped on…it’s not off an Apache, so the hub looks different…just make sure you're putting the bearings in the rear side (they’ll only fit in one direction) and hold the seal down on one side while tapping the other, moving around the seal in a circle:
(http://homepages.wmich.edu/~kroes/scottys/resources/img/bearings-tapseal.jpg)
When the rear bearing and seal are in, you can use your finger to smear a little more grease around the inside of the bearing, then slide the hub back onto the spindle.
Take the newly-packed outer (front) bearings and place them over the spindle, seating them in their original position. Take the washer you removed and coat it with a layer of grease, placing it over the spindle. You’ll see that it’s notched and will only go over the spindle one way. See photo showing bearings and washer back in hub:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings9.JPG)
Now replace the retainer nut. Fasten it down snug against the washer, then back off one “notch†in the nut until you can see the hole for the cotter pin. Place the cotter pin (straightened out, of course, or a new one if you splurge for the thirty cents or so…) through the hole and bend the longer end out and over the edge of the nut. This keeps the pin from ever falling out. See photo:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings10.JPG)
Now you will replace the dust cap. Again, make sure it nice and clean, especially along the edge that goes into the hub…no need to re-introduce dirt and foreign objects to your nice, clean bearings! To replace the dust caps, hold them in place and tap the top edges with a hammer lightly, moving in circles. You can use a wooden block if you’re afraid of marring them (the way mine look, I just whack ‘em with a hammer.) See photo:
(http://members.cox.net/peterswanson/bearings11.JPG)
You’re done with this wheel! Repeat for other side (unless you did the two-for-one special…)
You’ll probably notice a difference in the "free spin" of the wheels. It also allowed me to lubricate all the trailer brake parts located behind the wheel. And if you need to sand and paint your trailer wheels, this is a good way to do it because you have them off and there's no danger of paint contaminating the grease. Just plug the center area with newspaper and spray. Good Luck. - Pete
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Very Very nice job! Maybe the pictures will help some of the skiddish repack those bearings. Its a must if you havent done it and should be checked for safety sake! :wink:
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This is obviously French propoganda to get you to surrender, dont take the bate people! :roll:
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Oui, Timmeh, oui!
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Good job Pete!
Thanks for posting the How To with pictures.
That will help alot of owners.
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Nice job Pete
That will help others :wink:
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This thread is now a Sticky to keep this at the top of the list for people to use as a reference guide.
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I noticed that by it being stickey.
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Yes, bearing repacking can be VERY VERY sticky!
:lol:
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I know, I need to wash my hands now because when I opened the thread I did'nt realize you made it stickey and well...I see now that it is, stickey that is.
33 words,
no content,
Humor, priceless.
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LOL
And getting stickier by the minute!
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Humor is what helps keep me sane.
I don't want to think of the opposite.
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As much as I liked the pictures and how to lines, I would caution you about using air to blow off the parts. Most brake shoes contian adbestos( not sure if I spelled it right) in a fine powder form. This stuff is very hard your your lungs. The recomended way to remove the dust in to use a wash, ussally water, to clean the parts at first. This helps to keep the dust from being airborne, and letting you inhale it. Another way is to use a brake parts cleaner that comes in a spray can. Its cheap, and will disolve most of the grease, oil and keep the dust out of the air. It will also leave you with clean and dry parts. It does have a smell, so best to use if out side or in the ventalated area. I do this kind of work for a living, so I'm well aware of the risks involved with the dust.
On another note, what kind of grease are you using? One picture its looks blue, another it looks white. I'm not aware of any high temp grease that looks like that. I use a valvoline product, part # 633. This grease was used in the wheel bearings of Ford cars from the 60's and early 70's. It will take temps from -40 to 320 degrees. It is a Moly-Fortified Lithium based grease. It is very black looking and I beleive it contains graphite in it. I also use on most of my farm equipment, and seldom having any bearing failure with it. I'm sure that everyone has there favorite grease, from there favorite supplier, but this stuff works real well on high speed, temp bearings. Just my two cents worth. Jeff :D
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Jeff, spraying brake cleaner around and breathing it and contacting it on skin is also bad. A carcanajin if I am not mistaken. But then again when i was in the Navy we painted birthing compartments with the green apoxy based paint with not resperators or ventilation. I also bath in MEK and brake cleaner. What the (Censored word, PLEASE REMOVE!)), life is over rated! :roll:
I am trying to find some Wolfs Head bearing grease as my first choice but use the Valvoline as you stated. Your description I have found is right on the money. You have to forgive pete as he is converting to French and that frontal lobatomy is finaly kickin' in. Pretty soon he will be surrendering to the door bell like all go froggies.
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Yes, I consider the brake cleaner to be the lesser of the two evils. One just need to remember that your not to bath in it, just use enough to clean the parts and trap the dust. Also i'll note that it likes to eat plastic, so keep it away from the ABS parts.( this is something that the tent trailers dont have much of) Water might be the best solution for the ones that don't like the chemical cocktail. You just have to think about the hazardous things present in older type units, that aren't in the newer ones. I too, would like to use some Wolf's Head products, but they seem to be harder to find here than when I was younger. We used there oils on drag cars in the 60's and 70's. Good stuff, hard to find a replacement for. I relise that most people here would like to fix and repair there own stuff, but sometimes the health hazards might make it better for you to go to a dealer or someone trained in how to keep the nasty stuff off of your skin, and out of the lungs. I believe that there are also warnings for skin contact on motor oils, the grease, and just about every other product that is used in the field. It would be irony to be killed off by the things that helped you go camping and get back to nature. Jeff
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It would be irony to be killed off by the things that helped you go camping and get back to nature. Jeff
Revenge of the chemicals that humans have created.
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I also bath in MEK and brake cleaner. What the (Censored word, PLEASE REMOVE!)), life is over rated! :roll:
You have to forgive pete as he is converting to French and that frontal lobatomy is finaly kickin' in. Pretty soon he will be surrendering to the door bell like all go froggies.
Jeff.....I think that was Tim's attempt at humor....
Back in his days with the French Resistance (he gave all the Nazis bad haircuts and trimmed their fingernails crooked.....that was his contribution to the movement) he had an anvil dropped on his head by a coyote, and he's never been the same since.
As for the blue grease, THAT'S NOT MY PICTURE, DUDE! AND THOSE AREN'T MY UGLY FINGERNAILS! :lol:
I couldn't take a pic of the grease packing because my camera would never have forgiven me, and I'd have to bring it in the bathtub of brake cleaner with me to clean it...then it might not work too well.
I'll try to find the mfr of the bearing grease....don't remember...said high-temp bearing grease.
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Ahhhh Pete, didn't want to sacrifice your camera for a good picture?
I know.
You needed to draft your child into being your photographer!
:D
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How often should the bearings be repacked? We did ours last year and only took a few short trips. Longer trips planned this year.
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The Fayette trailer manual suggests yearly. As these critters run warm, when they cool down they
bring in moisture laden air that can condense and cause water to build up in them. This can
lead to rust, pitting of the races and or tapered roller bearing. Without a visual inspection
you never know of the problem. Dirt and other forein particals may aslo make there way in there
and cause wear, breaking down the hardened surfaces, which in turn will create more heat
as they run. Yearly inspections and lubrications will keep them running for many, many years
so they most likely will never have to be replaced.
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I always repack mine every year, or every 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. The previous owner didn't cover as many miles, but repacked the bearings every year. My trailer still has the original bearings.
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Prevention is important. Take care of your bearings annually and you might never have to replace them. Mine are the original bearings from 1973.
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I will have them repacked. thanks! :D
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My camper is parked outside on a neighbor's parking pad in Baltimore City. I think, for cleanliness' sake and a good working environment, I may be best served bringing my 73 Apache to an RV or trailer shop and have the bearings regreased there. Any thoughts? I don't know what the cost would be, but "peace of mind" is also something worth considering. I will be stopping by Chesaco RV (just outside Baltimore) tomorrow to pick up a propane tank cover, I'll see if I can get an estimate to have the work done.
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DYI website also has good/same advice and pics
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/bo_maintenance_repair/article/0,2021,DIY_13718_2277898,00.html
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Can someone repost the pics on here ?
I need to repack my bearings tonight in the rain and in the dark. What tools do I need to do this ? I know how to pack them just how do I get to them on a 79 Ramada and with what tools ?
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Here is a link to a bunch of video's about how to repack bearings.
http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=Repacking+trailer+bearings&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=oyPhSu3mJY76sgP8svVz&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CB0QqwQwAw#
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Can someone repost the pics on here ?
I need to repack my bearings tonight in the rain and in the dark. What tools do I need to do this ? I know how to pack them just how do I get to them on a 79 Ramada and with what tools ?
Don't have any pictures to post but: Pry off the bearing cap....gently going from side to side a little at a time until it pops off. Inside you'll find a crown nut with a cotter pin running through it. Use pliers to squeeze the expanded end of the cotter pin together and gently tap it as far out the opposite side as you can. With the pliers gently pull the cotter key out. I keep saying gently because I don't want you breaking the cotter pin if you don't have replacements.
Do not use the crescent wrench on the crown nut.
It just slip off and back on.
Take the crown nut off and unscrew the bearing nut. Wiggle the drum lightly and the bearing will start to come out. There is a washer on top of the bearing so don't miss that.
Clean up the bearings, pack them and reverse the removal process.
Here's the really important part. When putting the bearings back in snug it with your fingers and then use a crescent wrench and tighten the nut down. Then back the nut off approx 1/4 turn or until an opening in the king nut lines up with the hole in the spindle. The drum should rotate with ease b though not loose. As you'll be using the original bearings there is no need to crank the nut down to seat the bearings. If using new bearings you need to put some pressure on the nut to seat the bearings.
One last thing. Do what you can to not let the bearings get wet. Especially when reinstalling. Moisture/wet will only cause you problems later on.
Hope this is of some help.
P.S. I always add a fair amount of extra grease in the bearing cap for insurance.
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It would be irony to be killed off by the things that helped you go camping and get back to nature. Jeff
Revenge of the chemicals that humans have created.
A chemist for Dow Chemical once said that no chemical should be produced without what it takes to completely neutralize it.
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P.S. I always add a fair amount of extra grease in the bearing cap for insurance.
Just curious about this - I have been repacking my own bearings for years on many types of vehicles. When studying up on this some feel that if a little grease is good, then more is better. I have also read that you only want enough to completely fill the bearings and no more because excessive grease in the assembly will actually cause it to run hotter. I service my wheels regularly and have adhered to the latter advice for many years with good results.
Anyone else have an opinion on this ?
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P.S. I always add a fair amount of extra grease in the bearing cap for insurance.
Just curious about this - I have been repacking my own bearings for years on many types of vehicles. When studying up on this some feel that if a little grease is good, then more is better. I have also read that you only want enough to completely fill the bearings and no more because excessive grease in the assembly will actually cause it to run hotter. I service my wheels regularly and have adhered to the latter advice for many years with good results.
Anyone else have an opinion on this ?
What has been my practice is more is not necessarily better. Thoroughly pack the bearings, coat the spindle well, at the seal ends pack in some more creating a shield between the seal and bearing, with the bearings, crown nut and cotter pin in place push some in the gap between the hub and front bearing, place a fair amount in the cap for insurance and close it up. Give the drums/rotors some good spins forward and backward to mix it all in before putting them to use on the road.
With the new bearing greases they are quite slippery and sticky. I use the Valvoline #2 Lithium complex high temp. An excess amount of grease will put too much pressure on the rear seal and plow it out, defeating the entire purpose. In other words I wouldn't concentrate on filling the entire cavity with grease.
It has worked for me.
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P.S. I always add a fair amount of extra grease in the bearing cap for insurance.
Just curious about this - I have been repacking my own bearings for years on many types of vehicles. When studying up on this some feel that if a little grease is good, then more is better. I have also read that you only want enough to completely fill the bearings and no more because excessive grease in the assembly will actually cause it to run hotter. I service my wheels regularly and have adhered to the latter advice for many years with good results.
Anyone else have an opinion on this ?
What has been my practice is more is not necessarily better. Thoroughly pack the bearings, coat the spindle well, at the seal ends pack in some more creating a shield between the seal and bearing, with the bearings, crown nut and cotter pin in place push some in the gap between the hub and front bearing, place a fair amount in the cap for insurance and close it up. Give the drums/rotors some good spins forward and backward to mix it all in before putting them to use on the road.
With the new bearing greases they are quite slippery. I use the Valvoline #2 Lithium complex high temp. An excess amount of grease will put too much pressure on the rear seal and plow it out, defeating the entire purpose. In other words I wouldn't concentrate on filling the entire cavity with grease.
It has worked for me.
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YOSEMITE HERE WE COME..... A THANKS TO MY HUSBAND AND MY 17 YR. OLD SON WHO DID THE WORK..WHAT A PAIN THIS JOB COULD HAVE BEEN IF I DIDN'T HAVE AN " IDUSTURAIL PARTS GUY" IN THE HOUSE...( HUSBAND)..(NO ONE TOUCHES MY APACHE NORMALY BUT ME) WHEN HE LOOKED AT THEM HE TOLD ME I HAVE DIFFERANT HUBS. ONE A STEP HUB (FOR BRAKES) ( ORIGINAL POSSIBLE)AND ONE FOR A REGULAR TRAILER. SO TWO DIFFERANT BEARINGS. BEARINGS CAME OUT EASY ON THE ONE BUT THE STEP ONE ( WASTED ONE) HAD TO BE TAKEN TO A MACHINE SHOP. MY HUSBAND ASKED THE GUY TO CUT GROVES INTO THE HUB SO THE BREARINGS COULD BE CHANGED ON THE ROAD IF NEED BE. OH YES ONE MORE THING ....TIRES....QUINNLANS IN AMERICAN CANYON. HATS OFF TO THEM. PURCHASED NEW TIRES 2 YEARS AGO...HAD THEM IN STOCK PUT THEM RIGHT ON...TWO YEARS LATER LITTLE CRACKS ON THE SIDE WALLS.....UNDER INFLATED I GUESS .HE PRORATED NEW ONES FOR ME.THEY HAD LESS THEN 50% TREAD LEFT ON THE OLD ONS ..... NO LIP NO EXCUSSES JUST ILL GET RIGHT ON THEM. SORRY ABOUT THAT.. HOW ABOUT 50% OFF THE NEW ONES....STRANGE HOW THINGS WORK OUT.....IF IT WASN'T FOR THE BAD TIRES I WOULD NOT HAVE FOUND THE BAD BEARING UNTIL IT WAS TOO LATE. TAKE CARE DEBBIE IN NAPA.
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A rule of thumb for repacking bearings, repack the bearings every year or 2 or 10,000 miles. Remove all the old grease and replace it with new grease. Grease seals should be replaced every 5 to 10 years. If you find grease in your brakes, its past time to replace the grease seals. Bearings and seals can be purchased at Eastern Marine on the internet. These are standard trailer parts.
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YOSEMITE HERE WE COME..... A THANKS TO MY HUSBAND AND MY 17 YR. OLD SON WHO DID THE WORK..WHAT A PAIN THIS JOB COULD HAVE BEEN IF I DIDN'T HAVE AN " IDUSTURAIL PARTS GUY" IN THE HOUSE...( HUSBAND)..(NO ONE TOUCHES MY APACHE NORMALY BUT ME) WHEN HE LOOKED AT THEM HE TOLD ME I HAVE DIFFERANT HUBS. ONE A STEP HUB (FOR BRAKES) ( ORIGINAL POSSIBLE)AND ONE FOR A REGULAR TRAILER. SO TWO DIFFERANT BEARINGS. BEARINGS CAME OUT EASY ON THE ONE BUT THE STEP ONE ( WASTED ONE) HAD TO BE TAKEN TO A MACHINE SHOP. MY HUSBAND ASKED THE GUY TO CUT GROVES INTO THE HUB SO THE BREARINGS COULD BE CHANGED ON THE ROAD IF NEED BE. OH YES ONE MORE THING ....TIRES....QUINNLANS IN AMERICAN CANYON. HATS OFF TO THEM. PURCHASED NEW TIRES 2 YEARS AGO...HAD THEM IN STOCK PUT THEM RIGHT ON...TWO YEARS LATER LITTLE CRACKS ON THE SIDE WALLS.....UNDER INFLATED I GUESS .HE PRORATED NEW ONES FOR ME.THEY HAD LESS THEN 50% TREAD LEFT ON THE OLD ONS ..... NO LIP NO EXCUSSES JUST ILL GET RIGHT ON THEM. SORRY ABOUT THAT.. HOW ABOUT 50% OFF THE NEW ONES....STRANGE HOW THINGS WORK OUT.....IF IT WASN'T FOR THE BAD TIRES I WOULD NOT HAVE FOUND THE BAD BEARING UNTIL IT WAS TOO LATE. TAKE CARE DEBBIE IN NAPA.
If you should need or just want OEM brake assemblies I can get them for you....as long as they last.
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how much for a set of said brake assemblies? ::)
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yeah eric,
what's the price of shoes, magnets, drums (5 lug) for a 78 ramada? let me know what you have & how much, i'm ready to buy.
mike
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yeah eric,
what's the price of shoes, magnets, drums (5 lug) for a 78 ramada? let me know what you have & how much, i'm ready to buy.
mike
Mike;
The price is $25. per side plus shipping. I'll send you a personal message with his email for all the details.
Edit: I might be wrong on the price. I should have written I think the price is...instead of making a statement. Sorry.
I also have the spindles drums, backing plates and shoes off my '77 Ramada that should fit yours just fine. The only exception is the magnets are toast and the passenger side drum has helixes so studs can fit. Some previous owner must have stripped the (drum) threads.
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eric,
ok, i'll get a hold of him after i get that message. what do you want for the drums & backing plates? where in michigan are you? i live in clarkston.
mike
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eric,
ok, i'll get a hold of him after i get that message. what do you want for the drums & backing plates? where in michigan are you? i live in clarkston.
mike
Check your email Mike and we'll discuss my brakes etc that way. I live in the Grand Rapids area.
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In one of the archives is a letter from the Fayette Manufacturing Co., regarding how often to repack the wheel bearings.
20,000 miles, or at the beginning of each camping season.
I can guarantee you my trailer will never see 20k miles per year...ha ha...
The letter goes on to say that moisture can accumulate in the hubs if sitting idle for a few months, so that's the reason to do it each season.
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Ok.... So I took my hub and bearings off for a repack and not sure what the seal looks like. I have seen what they should look like, but not sure if mine disintegrated or what. Is there any metal involved or found on the seal itself? When I tapped the back bearing out, there was a sleeve/washer and a tiny peice of rubber on the lip. Should it look differently?
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t397/Wild-Surfwood/Mobile%20Uploads/3EAF13D3-EABF-4A1F-9A5A-A51951D1AA39_zpscccryuh3.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/Wild-Surfwood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3EAF13D3-EABF-4A1F-9A5A-A51951D1AA39_zpscccryuh3.jpg.html)
This is the back of the hub with bearings removed. Still has old grease on race. No sign of water even though I could not see a seal.
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t397/Wild-Surfwood/Mobile%20Uploads/4050B042-BEAC-4B46-BC12-BBB28C9CE2C7_zpsvqkjfctl.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/Wild-Surfwood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4050B042-BEAC-4B46-BC12-BBB28C9CE2C7_zpsvqkjfctl.jpg.html)
Also, I have brakes, but no pads to be found. Looks like it has been metal on metal for a while. Can I just take that peice that is attached to the hub and wire off since I'm not using the brakes. It pulled and brakes with no problem and was converted to a four pin by the previous owner?
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t397/Wild-Surfwood/Mobile%20Uploads/2ECB7418-2003-4045-AED3-6A0A8D29BCE5_zpscnnthd95.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/Wild-Surfwood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2ECB7418-2003-4045-AED3-6A0A8D29BCE5_zpscnnthd95.jpg.html)
Thanks for reading.
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Consider this a blessing. You can buy new bearings and grease seals. These were standard trailer parts and still available today. Get the part numbers off the bearings, likely starting with LM and look them up on Eastern Marine on the web. My 74 3500 lbs axle used outer 3/4" and inter 1 1/16" bearings and the grease seal was 1 1/6". You need to keep grease out of the brakes and a new grease seal usually best and can be hammered in using a wood block between the hammer and seal. later models used a different axle. The mag coil ware is normal.
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Thanks Kenega. Looks like L44649 on the outer bearing and the inner one does not have the number. I've seen these numbers before and checked at napa to see if they carry them. Does the seal usually have metal on it, like on the ring where they connect? I've seen them in pictures and it looks like only a thick rubber washer yellow in color.
Also, should I just put the hub back on and continue that normal ware or take that circle peice/mag coil off that rubs the hub?
Thanks again.
Scott
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The bearing number you provided I think is a 1 1/16" bearing. the inter bearing should be the same size. Here the website: http://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer-Wheel-Bearings-Races/. (http://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer-Wheel-Bearings-Races/.) the grease seal is the same as the inter bearing size..
I installed new grease seals and both inter and outer bearing. I added a 2nd washer to remove some free play adjusting the bearings. Always use a new cotter pin unless you are totally out of lock. Replacing races requires a hydraulic press at a machine shop. Simple job when you have the equipment.
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Thanks again. I will check the site you provided. I've seen videos of people getting the races out by hand. Using bearing strikers/removers. Thanks for the quick responses.
Scott
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I have installed races by hand, but its so much easier at a machine shop with the press. Well first the parts. If you want the manuals for this, I have them, just need your email address.
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By the way, I do carry my original bearings just in case of emergency repairs required on a trip. If I am able to attend the next California round up, I may teach installation the roof and packing bearings.
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Thank you very much for these manuals Gary. I will review,store, and print some of the manuals for reference. Lots of great info. I will carry a spare set of bearings incase as well. I've even heard of people carrying spare hubs. I'm sure other campers at the round up would be very appreciative to attend a showing of bearing and roof insulation instruction. Thanks again for the help and kindness.
Scott
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I'm one of those guys who carry bearings seals, grease and the tools to replace them on the road. So far I haven't needed them and I hope I never do, but it's good to have them along just incase.
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I'm one of those guys who carry bearings seals, grease and the tools to replace them on the road. So far I haven't needed them and I hope I never do, but it's good to have them along just incase.
I do too and haven't had to use them, yet.
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I once had an old car and lost one bearing when coming home from college, I had the spare bearing for that car and was able to repair the axle saving the axle or avoiding an expensive tow charge. This is a rare event.
By the way, I have other manuals as well. Fridge, lift system, stove, even a receipt to buy a fulton jack handle.
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I'm one of those guys who carry bearings seals, grease and the tools to replace them on the road. So far I haven't needed them and I hope I never do, but it's good to have them along just incase.
Me too I carry a set with me too. Debbie
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(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t397/Wild-Surfwood/Mobile%20Uploads/2ECB7418-2003-4045-AED3-6A0A8D29BCE5_zpscnnthd95.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/Wild-Surfwood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2ECB7418-2003-4045-AED3-6A0A8D29BCE5_zpscnnthd95.jpg.html)
I just finished changing out the bearings. Repacked them and put the hubs back on. Sounds like metal scraping (loudly) when I spin it because the "mag coil" is just rubbing on the back of the hub. You can see the peice i am talking about which shows wear. Can I just take that peice off since I am not using the brakes. I have a four pin plug right now and not utilizing the electric brakes? Thanks.
Scott