Insulating your Apache with Reflectix

[medicmike5969]

[img][http://www.apachepopups.net/smf/MGalleryItem.php?id=433/img]

[rwork316]

I would like to replace my paneling on my bed ends like the pic. Did you have to take that entire window assembly off? I am not sure how to approach that part. The ends seem easy enough. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[medicmike5969]

rwork316,

You probably should pull the bed end windows out just so you can check & make sure that there's no cracks in those corners. They're not hard to remove OR re-install. I didn't replace the paneling on my bed ends, I scraped & then painted them (cheaper than replacing, as long as they're not rotted).

Feel free to send me a message OR call me on my cell (248-933-6616) if you have any questions on it!

Mike

[nuthouseinva]

Anyone use the reflectix under their mattresses?
My 75 doesn't have paneling or insulated walls so I may try to insulate the cabinet compartments. 

Plan to have plenty of reflectix leftover from my upcoming roof project.

[goldman22]

I have a 1976 Mesa and I insulated the entire trailer with Reflectix, including lining the mattress box with it.
Just used two sided tape to hold it in place.
Jerry

[Pony Power]

I'm planning on that also. A 75' roll should leave me enough to do under one bed.

[medicmike5969]

Nuthouse,

I have put the Prodex under the mattress on one bed end & it really makes a difference, especially when you're up in the woods & the temp drops down into the single digits at night. PLUS it also protects the mattress from the sweating that the aluminum does.

Ponypower,

75' roll will give you plenty!

Good Luck all,
Mike

[kanega]

I did install Reflectix in the roof and bed end roofs.  I am trying to figure out a light weight good looking way to install reflectix on the bed end walls  and side walls.  For the bottom of the trailer, I am looking at stray adhesive on Reflextix and pressing onto the metal inside body of the trailer.  I am also looking at installing thermal drapes in the trailer for both room darkening and insulation.

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

Insulated the bed end side panels with Reflectix.  Here's some pictures of how I did it:
http://www.apachepopups.net/smf/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=581

[Desert Satanna]

  Beautiful job! I'll be doing mine the same way.

Too bad this only works on post-'75 trailers, though (I don't think the earlier trailers had interior walls attached like they are on the later models). 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

I'm not familiar with the various models so good point, thank you 

The pictures do have descriptions so click on the title of the first one and you'll be taken to the album where you will see the description along with the picture.  This is advantageous because you can click on the picture to make it larger, then click the picture again to close it.

Once one insulation "panel" has been cut it can be used as the template for the others, just remember to cut inside the tracing lines so the insulation stays within the valley of the bed end side panel.  If you already have all your supplies you can easily insulate and re-panel both bed ends in a day* and that includes a coffee break   The panels I used for the kids was 1/8" dry erase board from HomeDepot (same location for the insulation products).  Wife and I aren't sure what to panel the "adult" side with.

Notes:

• For this insulation to work properly you need to have it basically become an enclosed air pocket (ideally a gap of 2" or more), thus the reason why I taped the entire perimeter.  Technically you can just tape it in a few locations and that will let air flow around it but the insulation value will not be optimal.  However, a small air pocket is better than none.
  
• If you use fiberglass then you cannot compress it!  Why?  Because fiberglass creates its own air pockets and when you smush it down you remove the air pockets from it, rendering it almost useless
• Condensation:  I'm not sure about this.  It's easy to arm-chair quarterback this argument unless someone takes a proper scientific approach.  The West coast has less humidity than the East coast and the Southwestern states have less humidity than the Western states.  The number of people in the confined space, the amount of time they spend within, the amount of ventilation, etc. are all factors.  Humans put out a LOT of moisture, particularly with their breath.  Adults contribute more than children.  Oh, don't forget about pets, especially hot and exhausted dogs of the larger variety!  The best thing to do is ventilate, ventilate, ventilate!  Keep the moisture OUT of the camper.  Just because you don't see it on the outside or on the interior panels doesn't mean condensation isn't forming on the interior of the walls where you cannot easily see it!  Keep an eye on your camper, particularly the bits that are porous like cardboard, fabric, wood, etc.  Use mold-resistant materials where ever you can -- the extra cost is worth it.  Seal your wood products, too, if at all possible..

*Experience, the right tools for the right job, taking your time for a quality job, paneling material used, etc. will vary amoungst individuals but now that I've done it I would guess 3-6 hours for insulation and paneling replacement.

[Pony Power]

I never have had a moisture problem with mine even here in the NW. But I have plenty of ventilation, daylight everywhere there is a corner or joint. I didn't ever get the insulation in, once I got everything working I started using it and after three years or so I guess I just got used to it. I do lay out a 1 1/2" egg crate foam mattress cushion under my sleeping bag and that seems to do the trick. If its really cold in the morning I am able to reach the thermostat and turn up the furnace before I get up.
On a different subject, about four years ago when we were all coming up with different ideas on repairing cracks in the ABS I used an Bernzomatic butane soldering iron to v out the cracks, sort of like welding. Then flush filling with mek melted abs and everything is still in good shape even though most all of my camping is off pavement back road dry camping on our mining claims. Its an easy way to do repairs and it does work well.

[FortApache]

I did my entire '73 ramada to the  with a 50' roll. Roof and "bucket".   I did swipe the bed end insulation from my Mesa so you'll need approx 65' for this model. Unfortunately I don't have the interior wall in the '73 otherwise I'd have done the entire interior too. But,  I really like the 73 look. It's a little lighter too.

Beautiful job! I'll be doing mine the same way.

Too bad this only works on post-'75 trailers, though (I don't think the earlier trailers had interior walls attached like they are on the later models). 

[FortApache]

Dang, I just saw the way you overlapped the corners and roof frame. I didn't dot that..............  yet?