Author Topic: New wiring diagram  (Read 5064 times)

Offline Shrug53

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New wiring diagram
« on: September 01, 2005, 03:50:47 PM »
OK, here is the way I am planning to rewire my Mesa:



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Offline Shrug53

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« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2005, 06:54:49 PM »
Does anyone see anything wrong with this diagram.  It all seems right to me, but when it comes to stuff like this, it is nice to have a second opinion.
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Offline JaVelin

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« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2005, 09:50:00 PM »
The only thing I see is that the first connection off the battery needs to be a fuse. the battery lead .. if it shorts can discharge a lot of amperage into a short. I'd put it as close to the battery as you can get it. mine is right in thet battery box. i'll take a closer look when I have a few minutes

Edit: Other than a fuse I see nothing else wrong with your scheme. I would add a battery isolator on the new line your adding to the 7 way to keep from dicharging your car battery.  I think theres also some that can prevent overcharging the deep cell too. I haven't looked at them though so i'm not sure whats out there
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Offline LifeLongApacheOwner

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« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2005, 01:36:18 PM »
Might want to put your wire guage sizes down for the modifications as well.

Offline Shrug53

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« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2005, 01:42:51 PM »
Quote from: "JaVelin"
The only thing I see is that the first connection off the battery needs to be a fuse. the battery lead .. if it shorts can discharge a lot of amperage into a short. I'd put it as close to the battery as you can get it. mine is right in thet battery box. i'll take a closer look when I have a few minutes

Edit: Other than a fuse I see nothing else wrong with your scheme. I would add a battery isolator on the new line your adding to the 7 way to keep from dicharging your car battery.  I think theres also some that can prevent overcharging the deep cell too. I haven't looked at them though so i'm not sure whats out there


That is what the charge minder is for.  So it does not overcharge the deep cell.  Some thing to isolate the main battery would be good.  I was thinking about the same type of device I had when I ran dual batteries in one of my cars.
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Offline Shrug53

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« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2005, 01:46:11 PM »
Quote from: "LifeLongApacheOwner"
Might want to put your wire guage sizes down for the modifications as well.


I am still trying to figure those out.  It has been 20 years since tech school and I am a little rusty.  Just off the top of my head I am going to say 10 or 12 ga. will handle most of the 12 volt stuff, and maybe 8 or 10 ga, for the 110v.
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Offline LifeLongApacheOwner

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« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2005, 02:12:34 PM »
LOL! No problem

For MOST type of wire insulation use:

10 Guage = 30 Amp
12 Guage = 20 Amp
14 Guage = 13 Amp

Offline Shrug53

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« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2005, 02:18:24 PM »
Quote from: "LifeLongApacheOwner"
LOL! No problem

For MOST type of wire insulation use:

10 Guage = 30 Amp
12 Guage = 20 Amp
14 Guage = 13 Amp


I knew that, honest I did!   :oops:
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Offline f5snopro

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« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2005, 04:07:19 PM »
Excellent drawing! What application did you use to create?

Offline Shrug53

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« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2005, 04:34:38 PM »
Quote from: "f5snopro"
Excellent drawing! What application did you use to create?


Thank you.  did that in photoshop.  I do almost everything in photoshop.
I used to have a great program for doing electrical circuits but I lost it.

I am hoping to take some autocad training soon to expand my skills.

If you look at my site, in the  members albums section, and then under Shrugs Wack Concepts, you will see that I susbstitute a lot of drafting with drawings done in photoshop.
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Offline SpoiledJ

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« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2005, 04:58:26 PM »
unless you want to do Civil, or Architectural work I would suggest getting trainning in a 3D modeler such as Pro/Engineer, Unigraphics, Solidworks, Solid Edge, etc...

Altough AutoCad is still used in mechanical applications most it seems (at least in this area) have shifted to other software. Plus the pay is normally better with other software as the market is saturated with AutoCAD talent.

I guess I should mention that AutoCad is in the 3D market as well with software such as Inventor and some really like it, but around here it is the exception....

Sorry about jumping off topic just thought I'd add 2 cents to the pot!
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Offline JaVelin

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« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2005, 04:38:52 PM »
The charge minder won't prevent the alternator in your car from cooking off the battery in the trailer.

That is what the charge minder is for.  So it does not overcharge the deep cell.  Some thing to isolate the main battery would be good.  I was thinking about the same type of device I had when I ran dual batteries in one of my cars
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New wiring diagram
« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2005, 10:26:02 AM »
Tony, I just got back from vacation and saw your nice diagram.  Looks good overall.  I have a question on the power inverter.  Usually the only inverters that I have seen change 12v to 110v power.  A converter changes 110 to 12v.  I see a line from the inverter to a 12v line.  Or am I misreading this that you are taking 12v to the inverter?  

I guess an arrow signifying which direction power is moving into the inverter would make it easier for me to understand.  At first glance it looks to me like you are moving power from the big 120v breaker panel to the inverter.  Anyway that is the only part for confusion.  Otherwise, that is an excellent drawing.

Offline 79Ramada

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« Reply #13 on: September 13, 2005, 08:59:04 PM »
Quote from: "DDLTEXAN"
At first glance it looks to me like you are moving power from the big 120v breaker panel to the inverter.  Anyway that is the only part for confusion.  Otherwise, that is an excellent drawing.


The inverter is powered by the battery, so the current in the skinny red line should be from the battery via fuse block then to inverter, which in turn power the panel. The block diagram is a good first step but I do agree, it can be confusing for those who are not familiar with electrical circuits.

There is the inverter side of the circuit and the converter side of the circuit and they both will not be working simultanously. Otherwise, the battery looks like it will be generating AC and charges itself. Also the battery should only gets charged by either from automobile alternator or the converter via shore cord. So to do this circuit completely fool proof, there should be a transfer switch between shore power and inverter power before supplying to the breaker panel. Also a mechanism to charge the battery from either from car or converter. There are automatic switch over devices for such, but now we are talking lots of money. There are manual switch over devices too, but now there are too many possiblity an average camper to figure out (like wife and kids).

I think an average class A RV coaches and boats already have the system, and more. Try inserting a generator, solar charging system, and more.  :lol:
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Offline Shrug53

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« Reply #14 on: September 14, 2005, 09:18:00 AM »
OK, let me redraw that today so I can show you what I am thinking.  It will actually involve a couple of switches so I can run it in multiple configurations depending on what I have available as far as power.
Better living through reckless experimentation"

 

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