Author Topic: Living Hinge Replacement  (Read 1066 times)

DDLTexan

  • Guest
Living Hinge Replacement
« on: March 31, 2004, 04:10:43 PM »
Living Hinge Replacement

Posted from Old Site:


(WEB MODERATOR NOTE: Tim (timsch) and Terry (aawebtools) have genuine replacement parts and stock fabric living hinge - PM them for pricing)

I recently replaced all the hinges on my trailer as they were cracked and failing. The first thing you need is the material, take a piece of your broken hinge to a plastics distributor and show them what you need and tell them what its for. It must be flexible and be able to maintain this property when you machine it down to 1/16 of an inch for the channel. I think the stuff I have is called mylar. They stock it in 4 x 8 sheets and sell it by the foot. A piece 1 x 8 is lots to do all the hinges with some for later on if you break one again. It cost me about $20.00. The thickness is 3/16 inches. To make the hinge, cut a strip the length required (measure the old one) on either a table saw with a fine tooth blade or a band saw, at the appropriate width. The hinges on my Ramada are 13/16th of an inch.  Using the old hinge for the profile, router the channel into the material, taking off 1/16th of an inch on either side. The outside edges of the hinge can then be routered to give a rounded edge. This is important if the hinge is for a side panel as it has to slide back and forth. If the hinge is going onto the back wall the edge can be left at 90 degrees.
The channel can also be cut into the stock using a table saw but you have a lot more control with a router table, at least I did anyway. Panel hinges are easy to replace. With the trailer opened, just slide the panel off the track ( after you take out the locking screw) pull out the old hinges and slide in the new ones, then slide the panel back on the hinge. It should slide back and forth with little effort. If it binds, you haven't rounded the edges enough, or the profile is off a little. Make a small practice piece first to get it right.
To replace the end wall hinges, this procedure works well for me:  With the end wall down,drill out the rivets holding the end cap on one side of the bed and slide it off. Remove the locking tab which secures the hinge in place from this side by removing the set screw and pulling gently with long nose pliers outwards.
The plastic of the wall can be flexed back enough to remove the tab but take your time so you don't give it a stress crack. Grasp the hinge then with the pliers and pull it out. The hinge is flexible enough that you don't have to hold the wall back to pull it out. Then slide your new one into place. Replace the locking tab, and the end cap can then be riveted back into place. Presto Chango you're all done.  I recommend you do this with the trailer in your garage or if not on a day with no wind as you don't want the alignment to get
knocked out of place when the hinge is off the end wall. The locking tab on the other side should not be removed. I have easily done it from one side only plus it helps to hold it together and aligned.
Good luck with the job! -Steve

 

Use of this site is at your own risk! This is a user generated web site and apachepopups.net or it's operators are not responsible for it's use or content.
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal